Sailing in Maine

Sailing in Buzzrds Bay

Sunday, December 28, 2008

Rudder and Leeboard Bracket

Click on any picture to enlarge it. Blog starts with the September 23rd post.

To make the rudder mount, I epoxied together several pieces of 3/4" (19mm) thick mahogany. I could only find pintles to fit over a 3/4" rudder, so I had to notch the rudder mounts for clearance.

The two outer pieces of the rudder mount were epoxied to a piece of Douglas fir.

The resulting assembly was then beveled on the leading edge.

I'm very pleased with the performance of the Ridgid portable table saw. It folds up for storage, which is a bonus.

The trailing edge was cut to a full radius with the Roto-Zip tool.

The rudder construction is the same as the leeboards. Here, it's being covered on both sides with 6 oz. fiberglass cloth.

The hull was sanded, then given 3 coats of Minwax Helmsman polyurethane. I didn't like the gloss or the "warmth" of the finish so I added another 3 coats of Interlux Schooner varnish.

Here the leeboard bracket is being pieced together from pieces of fir. Again, I'm making it up as I go along.

To save time I made the masts and spars from pine closet pole stock. It's a little on the heavy side but very strong. I'll make proper spruce replacements later on.

I picked up the vintage Stanley plane at the Wooden Boat show in Mystic, Connecticut.

The leeboards after being covered with glass cloth and epoxy.

I glued a steering arm to the rudder mount and attached a steering arm with a 3/8-16 stainless capscrew and a nylon insert nut, allowing free movement.

The rudder was attached to the rudder mount with another 3/8-16 stainless capscrew and nylon insert nut. It will be held down with a bungee cord.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Leeboards and Trim

Click on any picture to enlarge it. Blog starts with the September 23rd post.

To make the leeboards, I butt-glued some pieces of mahogany and fir together. The two woods were chosen to provide some visual interest. Since the boards will be glass-covered, I don't see the need to use pins or biscuits for added strength.

The rudder will be constructed in similar fashion.

The blue pencil line shows where the boards will be cut with the saber saw. I'm making up the design as I go along here.

I'm choosing long, narrow foil shapes for better efficiency at faster speeds. I considered the trade-offs of using one board or two, and decided to go with two boards for the added flexibility it gives to make adjustments for speed, load, and weather.

After cutting, I smoothed out the cut line with the sander. I also ran the boards through the planer to smooth them out.

The handles and bottom edge were rounded over with a cove bit mounted in the Roto-Zip.

I cut the leading edge at 16 degrees per side and the trailing edge at 6 degrees, then rounded all the edges with the random orbit sander.

I ripped some 1/4" ( 6.4mm) thick strips from a mahogany 2 x 4 to form the coamings. They have to be high enough to keep water out of the cockpit and low enough to allow someone to sit on the deck. These will also serve as a surface to lean against, and hide the edge grain of the deck, and the deck stringer.

The piece lying on the deck will be trimmed to match the curve of the deck and attached to the upper edge of the rear bulkhead. This is a cosmetic, not structural, addition.

The third mast mount was glued to the underside of the front edge of the cockpit.

While the epoxy set up, I cut the hole for the rear mast mount.

A piece of ABS pipe helped to align the rear mast step with the hole in the deck. Each mast step has a piece of solid wood under it to take the load of the mast. The masts will have a six degree rake.

The cosmetic strip can be seen in place at the upper edge of the bulkhead.

View of the third mast step.

I made some trim pieces for the mast mounts out of 1/4" mahogany. I'm trying to keep the trim pieces as thin as possible to keep the weight down.

View of the front mast mount.

The hull is just about done.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Finishing the Hull

Click on any picture to enlarge it. Blog starts with the 9/23/08 post. Your comments/ suggestions are welcome.

The bottom received a coat of epoxy and a good sanding. All the seams were filled with the wood flour/ silica/epoxy mix. The front and rear stems were contoured into a smooth curve.

When the bottom was completely prepped, I rolled on the 6 oz. fiberglass cloth. Three coats of epoxy were added to fill the weave completely. All the little lumps and ripples in the surface were then sanded smooth with the random orbit sander.

The deck was then sanded. I removed the brass screws that held the deck on, and filled the holes.

I designed a wave deflector in SolidWorks, to keep water from entering the cockpit. The parts are made of 1/4" (6.4 mm) thick mahogany. The included angle between the parts is 120 degrees, and they tilt forward at a 45 degree angle.

A pencil mounted on a spacer was used to transfer the deck curvature onto the parts.

No bandsaw? No worries!

A sabersaw mounted upside down in the vice was used to cut the curved 45 degree angle on the bottom of the wave deflector.

I really hated to cut through the deck, it looked so smooth, but the front mast step has to go there.

View of rear deck showing the filled screw holes.

The front deck. The beauty of the wood is starting to show through after a coating of thinned epoxy.

Monday, December 1, 2008

Installing the Front Deck

Click on any picture to enlarge it. Blog starts with Sept. 23rd post.

With the sail plan established, I have the location of the front mast step. I cut a deck cross beam and attached it just ahead of the mast step location.

I cut through the deck beam, then added a vertical support to help take the mast loads.

I put a couple of 1 x 2's under the mast step itself to give the mast something solid to bear against. The step is located to give a six degree rake to the mast.

These parts add a noticeable amount of weight, but I want to make sure they will never break since I won't have access to them after the deck is installed.

With the mast step in place, it was time to glue on the front deck. Clamps and tape secured it while the screws were installed.

View from the front showing the clamps holding the deck.

As with the rear deck, screws were used on the outside while clamps were used around the cockpit opening until the epoxy set up.

After the epoxy cured, I used a laminate trimming bit in the Roto-Zip tool to trim the deck back to the deck beams and the rear bulkhead.

I used the sabre saw to trim the deck close to the sides. I then used a plane and the random orbit sander to get it flush.

I gave the hull a coat of thinned epoxy, then started sanding it in preparation for glassing the bottom of the hull.

The seams in the hull were filled with the epoxy/ wood flour/ silica mix.

From the rear.

Note the rudder mounts.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

The Sail Plan

Click on any image to enlarge it. Blog starts with 9/23/08 post.

The original Yakaboo carried a very good looking batwing yawl rig. This is an efficient sail shape (like the elliptical shape of many airplane wings) that allows many options to shorten the amount of sail area to suit prevailing conditions. As much as I would like to do a rig like this (and may in the future) I just can't take the time if I want it done by vacation.
I started looking for suitable alternatives, perhaps a lug yawl rig for its ease of construction and simplicity.

Looking around on the net, I came across this nice lug yawl set-up. It turns out that these sails were made by Todd Bradshaw of Madison, WI, author of Canoe Rig: The Essence and the Art : Sailpower for Antique and Traditional Canoes. I contacted Todd to inquire whether he would make a similar set for me, and how soon. I also sent away to Amazon for a copy of the book.

After supplying Todd with information on the boat and its intended use, he sent some illustrations showing the proposed sail rig. He suggested going with higher-peaked sails, which will shorten the length of the boom (to keep it from hitting the water when the boat heels), and to improve windward performance. He also suggested raking the masts 5 or 6 degrees.
In place of reef points to reduce sail area, there will be three mast steps to be used with a 39 sq. ft. main and a 15 sq. ft. mizzen. Most of the time, both sails will be used with a total area of 54 sq. ft., then either the main or mizzen will be stepped by itself when the wind pipes up.
The higher peaked sail means the main mast will be too long to stow in the cockpit, but I'm willing to make that trade-off to get better performance.
Defining the sail rig is necessary before the decking is installed because I need to locate the front mast step while it is still accessible.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Installing the Rear Deck

Click on any photo to enlarge it. Blog starts with the Sept. 23rd post.

While I was at Jamestown Distributors to pick up supplies, I bought a pair of stainless steel eye bolts with 1/4"-20 threaded shafts to serve as rudder mounts. These were mounted on the rear stem prior to the deck installation.

One of the remaining sheets of ply was placed over the back half of the canoe and the outline was traced with a pencil.

Another view.

I cut a half inch (12 mm) outside the pencil mark.

Test fitting before applying the epoxy.

I used a special marking stick to locate the position of the screws that will hold the deck in place until the epoxy cures.

After removing the deck, I applied an epoxy/ sawdust mix to the stringers. The deck was reinstalled and clamped in place. As they say, you can never have too many clamps....

The outside edge was secured with #8 x 1" brass screws. The holes were pre-drilled with a countersinking bit.

The deck in place with screws installed. No screws were installed around the cockpit.